Hello friends, in today’s post we are going to see 4 simple ways to finish off the seam allowances and achieve a more durable and attractive garment interior!
We can find a seam finish that works perfectly with each of the fabrics chosen for our projects.
When we finish cutting the pieces into the fabric, don’t get rid of the scraps! Cut into squares to the straight thread, we can try different sewing finishes on them and then go straight to the washing machine (if our plan is to machine wash the garment we sew) to see which one is the most suitable.
Let’s see them in detail!
It is the universal finish used to polish the edges of the fabric. We can get interesting variations by combining the stitch width and length. In this post, you can review the basic concepts of the zigzag stitch and its application as a finish for the seam allowances.
Now once we control the zigzag of a lifetime, we can go one step further and experiment with the elastic zigzag stitch (each side of the zigzag is made up of three micro stitches). Do not be fooled by appearances and think that it can only be applied to elastic fabrics, because it works like a charm to finish off medium-high thickness fabrics with a tendency to serious fraying.
If we want to hear heavenly chimes when overcasting and perfectly elevate this technique, we will use a machine foot that is special for sewing on the edge of the fabric, which avoids the much-feared “tunnel effect”.
This sewing finish is indicated for light fabrics that do not fray much. It is a highly polished technique, since it does not leave the edges of the tissue exposed, although it consumes a little more time.
The first step is to sew a straight stitch about 6mm from the edge of each seam allowance. If we want a more delicate finish, we can sew closer to the edges, what our team and skill allow us!
Next, we will fold along the seam line that we have just made, leaving the stitching inside the seam allowance.
To finish, we will pass good stitching on the edge of each side of the seam allowance, and we can also use the elastic zigzag stitching to prevent possible fraying of the fabric edges hidden under the fold. Total control!
Sewing and zigzag cutting
Slippery and compromising fabrics such as chiffon , angel skin or satin need special treatment according to the situation. For this reason, it is appropriate to use a finer thread than usual in seam finishes to maintain the lightness of the project.
As with the finish we just saw, the first step is to sew a straight stitch about 6mm from the edge of each seam allowance. The more a fabric frays, the farther from the edge we will make this seam.
To finish, we will cut the edges of the fabric of each seam allowance with zigzag scissors, leaving a reasonable distance to the stitching. These scissors are a very good investment!
As a result, we will have a polished and very flirty finish for those curious (or curious) who want to take a look inside the garment.
Edges sewn together
So far we have not discussed the possibility of overcasting or polishing the two seam allowances together!
This option is very successful in knitwear where the edges tend to curl up, creating bulky not-so-professional looking seam allowances.
We will sew the two seam allowances together, about 6mm from the seam with the invisible stretch stitch (much like a heart rate graph). We can also use a small tiny zigzag stitch or a wider elastic zigzag stitch depending on the result we want to obtain. Try it, my dear!
The next step is to cut both seam allowances at the same time, very close to the last stitch. Always be careful not to cut the garment!
And here we have our tightly polished seam allowances in a knitted fabric.
As you can see, there are many different ways to finish the seams of our favorite projects. That laziness is not your accomplice in the sewing room, and before launching yourself into sewing without braking (it happens to all of us, we want to see the assembly of the garment quickly) it is advisable to take a time of investigation and testing. Little by little, your textile intuition will be as fine as coral and by seeing a patch several meters away you will know which finish is the one that suits you best.
Be sure to share your opinions and comments! We are looking forward to hearing your experiences and tips.