Special Hem With Lace Tutorial

Special hems with lace

Giving a mysterious and flirtatious air to hem is as easy as spending an afternoon choosing lace ribbons at a mercerie, and deciding, in the heat of a cup of chocolate and good company, the ribbon that best suits your character. Appetizing, right?

We don’t always like to finish the bottoms of our garments with a correct hem, so today we are going to see how to incorporate the lace ribbons in one of the less noble parts of the seam.

For this, we will use lace ribbons, which we can leave fully decorative or, for the most curious looks, on the inside of the garment as an intimate and very feminine finish.

Below we will look at three different techniques for applying lace ribbons to the hems. As you will see, in addition to decorating, all the basses are perfectly polished. We combine efficiency and beauty, let’s go with poetic sewing!

Hem with exposed lace and polished overlap

For this type of hem, we will use an embroidered cotton ribbon with a piece of plain fabric in its design.

STEP 1 Prepare with the iron

  • Cut the tape to the required size.
Cut the tape to the required size
  • Fold the fabric backward, with the help of the iron, about 5 mm.

This measurement varies depending on the piece of plain fabric of the tape that you have chosen.

Fold the fabric backwards
  • Differentiate the wrong side of the reverse on the embroidered ribbon.
  • Fold to the right side of the fabric, with the help of the iron, about 5 mm.

When we are ironed the fold on the tape, it should be with the right side facing us (unlike when we fold the bottom of the garment).

ironed the fold on the tape

STEP 2 Secure with pins

  • Place the garment with the wrong side of the fabric facing up.
  • Prepare the tape with the wrong side facing up as well.
Secure with pins
  • Insert the fold of the tape into the edge of the fabric corresponding to the garment.

In this way, the polished fold of the ribbon wraps around the plucked fabric of the hem, leaving it polished.

  • Place pins on the right side of the garment, making sure to pin the fabric and tape.
Place pins on the right side of the garment

In the image, we can see the bishops seen from the reverse.

seen from the reverse

STEP 3 Machine sew

  • Choose the invisible stitch in the sewing machine (it is a zigzag stitch in which one of the mountains is higher than the rest).
  • Use a stitch length of 2 and a stitch width of 3.

The values ​​are totally personal and adaptable to your preferences and tastes. As always, before sewing on the final garment, it is advisable to test a sample and evaluate various options.

  • Sew on the edge of the fabric using one color for the upper thread and a different color for the bobbin thread.
Machine sew

This is the result seen from the right side of the fabric, where the highest zigzag tip ensures the bond between fabric and tape.

right side of the fabric

And seen by the reverse of the work.

reverse of the work

Hidden Lace Hem

With this option, we will have a Classique hem seen from the outside, but with a lot of fantasy on the inside. This technique is very indicated in those fabrics in which we feel lazy to overcast the edge (for whatever reason).

STEP 1 Prepare with the iron

  • Fold the width of the final hem (in this case, 2.5 cm) towards the wrong side of the fabric with the help of the iron.
towards the wrong side
  • Cut the tape to the required size.
Cut the tape

STEP 2 Secure with pins

  • Present the tape on the wrong side of the piece in the correct direction.
Present the tape on the wrong side
  • Unfold and secure the tape to the single layer of fabric with pins, overlapping approximately 5 mm.
tape to the single layer of fabric with pins

STEP 3 Machine sew

  • Using a narrow, standard length zigzag stitch, sew at the busiest edge of the ribbon.

When working with lace, we must carefully study the design of the drawing and locate the most appropriate areas to sew.

sew at the busiest edge of the ribbon

I attest that there is matching zigzag stitching that joins the fabric and lace ribbon. Totally invisible!

joins the fabric and lace ribbon
  • Rotate the hem inward and place pins to secure the tape to the fabric.
  • Sew using the zigzag or straight stitch along the edge of the ribbon.

The final result, and yes, fancy nightgowns, bathrobes, and garments come to mind.

Final result

Hem with exposed lace

The last option that we are going to see in this night style tutorial in Venice, is a mix of the two techniques explained above.

STEP 1 Prepare with the iron

  • Fold the fabric backward, with the help of the iron, about 5 mm.
  • Cut the tape to size.
  • Present the tape in its final position.
Present the tape in its final position

STEP 2 Secure with pins

  • On the wrong side of the work, place the upper edge of the ribbon covering the edge of the fabric.
  • Secure with pins.
place the upper edge of the ribbon

STEP 3 Machine sew

  1. Choose the invisible stitch on the sewing machine (or the zigzag stitch, it’s up to you! ).
  2. Use a stitch length of 2 and a stitch width of 3.

The final result of the fastest and most effective technique with which we can work with lace.

The final result Special hems with lace

As the last recommendation, to avoid pieces of fried ribbons on your magnificent iron, ask about the composition of the lace ribbons and, as a professional, do a little heat test.

And most importantly, does anyone cheer up with this technique for any special garment? What do you have in mind? I am still looking for narrow lace ribbons with apricot tones, makeup, mauve … although I do not rule out buying them from cotton and dyeing them to taste.

A hug,

Robin

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