Sooner or later, when we start sewing our wardrobe, we find ourselves face to face with the need to polish a neckline or the waist of a skirt. So, as if it were an apartment on the beach, today we are going to talk about the collar. But what exactly are collar and what are they for? Let’s solve these doubts!
The collar is located in areas that are likely to be seen even wearing the garment, hence its name. For this reason, these areas must have a portion of tissue from the right to preserve the aesthetics of the model. In addition, they help to polish the edge of curved areas and give consistency, helping the garment to have stability. The collar can be integrated into the garment (such as jacket lapels), or cut separately.
In today’s post, we will see the mechanics of a collar applied to a neckline. We will not go into the details of the garment closure (center back) and how it would affect the collar. We will see it later with specific cases.
Let’s go there!
STEP 1 Take the pattern out of collar
The patterns of the pieces that correspond to the collar are drawn in the same pattern of the body (skirt, pants, jacket, etc.) and then a copy is made on separate paper. Maintaining the same seam allowances is important for successful assembly.
Let’s see the necessary steps in more detail:
- Draw a line parallel to the edge that we want to polish with the desired depth of collar (in necklines it is approximately 5 cm).
- Trace the pieces of the collar on another paper with the appropriate cutting indications.
As a result, we will have the front and back patterns on the one hand and their corresponding collar on the other.
STEP 2 cut the pieces into fabric
- Cut the pieces corresponding to the body and the collar in fabric.
It is very common to use a printed fabric in the necklines, armholes, and waist collar to add a fun touch to the interior of the garments.
It is also a very good solution for when we run out of enough tissue!
- Apply thermal adhesive interlining on the reverse of the collar.
At this point, it is worth noting the thousand and one possibilities according to the genre and inspiration of the moment. Depending on the thickness of the fabric, the interlining or a little bit of everything, we can decide not to put the interlining on the seam allowances. It is a matter of testing, analyzing the results and having a little luck.
In this image, we can see the correspondence of the collar and the body parts. They are superimposed for didactic purposes, we have not seen anything yet!
STEP 3 Join the collar
Next we will mount the body on one side and the collar on the other.
- Join the shoulders of the collar with a straight stitch.
- Reinforce at the beginning and end of the seam.
- Overcast with zigzag stitch on each side of the seam allowance.
- Open the seam allowances of the collar with the tip of the iron.
STEP 4 Polishing the edge of the collar
We can polish the finish of a collar in many different ways: overcast with zigzag, overlock, hidden stitch, or as we have used in the tutorial, with bias tape.
- Choose a color-matching bias tape.
- Apply the bias tape at the lower edge of the collar (the upper one is attached to the neckline).
- Give an iron to leave the collar smooth and polished.
STEP 5 Polishing the neckline with the collar
- Join the shoulders of the body, overcast the seam allowances, open them with the iron and sew a stabilizer stitch on the neckline.
- Right-side the body and collar.
- Match the shoulder seams.
- Place pins around the entire neckline to secure the pieces.
- Sew the neckline with a straight stitch, making sure to do it below the stabilizer stitching.
STEP 6 Prepare the collar
As the seam line is curved at the neckline, we have to use various techniques so that the collar turns correctly towards the inside of the garment.
- Make a few small cuts in the most curved areas without actually cutting the joint stitching.
- Halve the seam allowance for the collar.
- Push the seam allowances (body and sight) toward the sight piece.
- Make a top stitch 2 mm from the seam line.
This is the result of the stitching that forces the eye to turn inward.
If we want an extra so that the collar remains in its area, we can use this machine foot with a central separator.
- Make a straight stitch above the seam line using the spacer as a guide.
If we use a matching thread, these topstitches are practically invisible, especially the last one. Initially, the use of this foot may not be very clear, but it works! (and for more techniques that we will see later).
STEP 7 Rotate the collar inward
- With the tip of the iron, secure the edges of the neckline (not the whole collar).
It is advisable to work the collar (and especially if they are in curved areas such as a neckline) with the garment open, that is, if the sides are closed. This facilitates the assembly and once finished, we can continue with the rest of the garment.
Now all you have to do is decide if you want sea or mountain collar, it’s that simple!
If you have any questions or concerns, you already know that you can leave a comment 🙂