To add a three-dimensional effect to our project, it is not necessary to use Jurassic Park premiere futuristic glasses. Through curls, boards, folds and a bit of textile origami we can make our clothes come alive.
Today we are going to see how to purse or curl a fabric using only the sewing machine (we can also do it by hand).
There are different types of feet for the sewing machine that automate the curling of fabrics, very suitable for more serialized productions or if you curl pieces very often.
The basis of this technique is to reduce the length of tissue by small curls to a smaller length in another tissue. Sewing curly skirts, cuffs, yoke and ruffles for cushions or embedding a sleeve are some of the examples of the application of the curl or purse.
Let’s go there! How To Purse Machine Fabrics
STEP 1 stitch
- Select the longest length of the straight stitch.
- Place the sheet of tissue we want to curl under the foot of the presser foot.
- Leave generous thread ends at the beginning and end of the seam.
- Sew two parallel stitches within the seam allowance of the work.
As you will observe when sewing with this length of stitching, the fabric naturally begins to undulate, a more than obvious sign of the proper functioning of these stitches.
Traditionally there was only one stitching but at the time of curling the curls were loose and it was more laborious. By making two rounds of stitching, it is easier to work by making the frown more fixed. In the next step, you will check!
STEP 2 purse
- Place a pin perpendicularly at one end of the area that we are going to curl.
- Wrap in the pin the two strands of thread on that side drawing an “8”.
- Hold the work where we have placed the pin with one hand.
- On the other hand, stretch the strands of thread at the other end and curl.
In order for the curl to gather with style and harmony, it is important to always stretch the same threads (at both ends) whether they belong to the upper thread as if they were those of the bobbin.
- Place a second pin on the other end to ensure the level of curl.
- Spread the curl to balance.
Normally in the patterns, the areas that curl (such as an area of the chest) are marked with pickets that indicate the origin and end of the purse area and what should be its exact length to fit with the other part of the garment.
STEP 3 Fix the pucker
Once we have the sheet of tissue with the desired curl, the next step is to fix it to another piece of plain fabric. This part could amount to putting the waistband on a gathered skirt.
- Place the right of the plain fabric facing the right of the gathered piece, aligned by the edge.
- Place pins transversely, which will help the distribution of the curl.
- Set the stitching length to normal in our sewing machine (2.5 is the standard).
- Place the gathered piece up, to sew watching the curl.
- Sew below the second line of puckering, slowly and combing the loops to avoid crooked curls.
It is true that this image is a bit intimidating, but it is necessary to familiarize ourselves with the darkest dark side of the seam (which is not so much, a bit of gloom as much).
Here we have our curly piece sewn and fixed with all possible thread ends.
- Cut the ends of the last seam thread.
- Remove the stitching to gently purse.
STEP 4 iron
Apply the iron only on the seam allowances without entering the curl, so as not to crush it.
And so far this simple technique but with multiple applications that will enrich garments and projects.
You can review in transparent Elastic how to use this material to gather, it is very new! In a future post, we will see how to apply the technique seen today to place the sleeves and soak the cups perfectly.
Until next time!