Blue Jeans: Classic Hem Sew Tutorial

Finding jeans that look great, fit, and fit our budget is no easy feat. And the hard part does not end here, because there is a good chance that you will have to take their bass.

Spending a little time on this work is a good investment of time because wearing the bottom of the pants properly favors our figure and is a sign that we take care of our image.

Material:

  • pins
  • scissors
  • dressmaker’s chalk
  • griddle
  • hammer
  • 100 number needle ( jeans ) for machine
  • twine thread
  • thin cardboard (the type that comes around the stockings)

STEP 1 TAKE the bass with pins

To get the bass, it is necessary to put on the shoes that we plan to wear most of the time with those pants. It is one of the most complicated parts and more if the Texan is new, but you have to decide!

  • Put the pants with the corresponding footwear.
Long Texan Bass

The help of a friend for the next part is ideal. Otherwise, with a mirror and a little patience, we will achieve the desired length, which is a function of personal taste (longer behind, which almost completely covers the heel …).

  • Fold the fabric inward.
  • Put some pins to hold it.
Texan hem with pins
  • Remove the pants and turn them inside out.
  • Reposition a pin if it is half down.
  • Temporarily match the side seams, later we’ll refine the exact length.
Pins on the wrong side of the Texan

STEP 2 Mark the hem

  • Measure excess tissue around the entire hem. In the example, there is 5 cm leftover the entire hem (there are no differences between front and back).
  • Reposition the pins.
Take the bass to the same extent
  • Check that the side seams are the same length.
Checking length in side seams
  • Chalk some guides 3 cm from the desired length. This margin is for the hem, which we will sew next and which will polish the hem.
Chalking the hem margin

STEP 3 cut excess tissue

  • Remove all the pins.
  • Return the Texan of the right.
  • Remove excess length by cutting along the lines previously drawn.
Cut by the chalk line

STEP 4 iron the hem

  • Turn the pants inside out.
  • Mark the first turn of the 1 cm wide hem with the iron.
  • Let cool.
Iron the first turn of hem
  • Wrap the first round in with a second 1 cm round.
  • Ensure that there is continuity in the side seams of the leg and hem.
  • Let cool.
Iron the second turn of hem
  • Hammer the thickness of the side seam on a stable surface during office hours.
Iron the second turn of hem

STEP 5 sew

Texan fabric is thicker than the fabrics we normally sew, so it is necessary, before starting to sew, to make several adjustments to some parts of the sewing machine :

  • Change the needle, using one of thickness 100 (normally we use one of thickness 80).
  • Use a thicker thread, called twine thread, in the upper thread, which gives a more professional finish to the visible seams. In the bobbin, we will use normal thread.
  • Increase stitch length to 3.5-4.5, which is typical for exposed stitching.
  • Leave the arm free in the circular sewing machine.
Work with the free arm of the machine
  • Start the stitching at a side seam or, if it is too thick, near it and at the back of the denim leg.
  • Sew 1 cm from the edge of the fabric.

We don’t want to see stitching joints on the front of the pants! If it’s behind … eyes that don’t see a heart that doesn’t feel.

Start stitching at the side seam

The biggest problem when sewing the bottom of a pant comes now when the thickness causes the presser foot to become uneven. On more than one occasion it happens that the machine gets stuck at this point and sews without advancing.

Thickness problem when reaching the side seam

To solve this problem, we will take a thin piece of cardboard and fold it several times, until we find the thickness necessary to level the presser foot.

  • Drive the needle into the tissue.
  • Raise the presser foot.
  • Place the piece of cardboard just behind the needle.
  • Start sewing slowly until the thickness is saved.
Cardboard to equalize the unevenness of the machine foot
  • Finish the seam where we started it.

There are two options to finish the seam: securing with the backstitch or, if you want a more polished finish, putting the strands on the wrong side of the jeans and knotting them.

  • We already have a finished hem on the outside and inside.

In the event that you want a more realistic finish, you can do an erosion treatment to the new bass. Sandpaper, pumice, small cuts, and fraying can add realism.

Texan hem finished inside

Unless grunge is your middle name, ripped, muddy lows are no trend. So arm yourself with the basic pack of the coarse needle, hammer, and cardboard because they are essential for the success of your Texans. Of course, when the word of your new ability spreads, friends will come out everywhere!

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